A living heritage in the heart of a little-known historical territory
Between deep forests, stone villages, medieval abbeys, and castles, the Valois region unfolds its calm and powerful landscapes at the gates of Paris, between the Oise and Aisne rivers. Cradle of the Capetian Valois dynasty, this once royal region is now discreet, almost secret. Yet it boasts a density of monuments and historical sites among the richest in France.
From the hills of Crépy-en-Valois to the wooded valleys of Retz, the area offers a rare diversity: forests, old quarries, castles, manors, rural churches, abbeys, fortified farms... The buildings here tell a thousand years of history, sometimes in ruins, often still inhabited.
Enhancing the rich heritage of Valois
Founded two years ago by Guy-Pierre de Kersaint, owner of the Château de Versigny, and Nicolas Bilot, historian and archaeologist, the association "La Route du Valois" is a direct response to the opening of the International City of the French Language at the Château de Villers-Cotterêts. This opening has indeed brought new dynamism to the region. The collective now includes more than twenty privately owned monuments in the Oise and Aisne departments that are occasionally open to the public. Its goal is clear: to highlight the rich heritage of the area by opening up to the public places that are often private, sometimes forgotten, but always unique, and by creating itineraries that are cultural, human, and scenic.
Versigny Castle
Among the first to embody this desire for transmission , Guy-Pierre de Kersaint was one of the driving forces behind this dynamic. A stately residence at the gateway to the Valois region, the Château de Versigny underwent significant transformations in the 17th and 19th centuries . Despite the ravages of the World Wars, the de Kersaint family has been restoring and maintaining this monumental heritage for three generations. We had the opportunity to meet him at his estate to discuss his passion for the Valois: “The Valois is a cradle of French history that is not sufficiently appreciated. Its strength lies in the diversity of its architecture and landscapes: forests, barns, churches, castles… It is heritage in the broadest sense.”
He occasionally organizes guided tours of the castle: "Many visitors know Versigny by name, but are unaware of its history. When they come, they discover the family heritage, an almost initiatory journey."
The Château d'Orrouy
A few kilometers away, on the edge of the Compiègne forest, stands the Château d'Orrouy, a place steeped in history. Dating in part from the 15th century , it was profoundly transformed in the 19th century under the impetus of Count Armand Doria. A great patron and collector, friend of Corot, Daumier, and Manet, Doria made the château an artistic retreat, welcoming painters and intellectuals in a neo-Gothic setting. This prestigious past, etched in stone, continues to resonate within the walls of Orrouy and in the heart of its owner, Bruno Grégoire-Sainte-Marie. It is within this setting that his voice is heard, the new president of the La Route du Valois association since 2025. "I spent my childhood in the Valois region, between Nanteuil-le-Haudouin and Crépy-en-Valois." Thirty years ago, I settled in Orrouy, in the Automne Valley. It's an area I know intimately.
For him, La Route du Valois must continue to grow and open up to everyone. This allows everyone to discover places that are sometimes closed, to participate in events and tours, and to better understand the richness of this region. But the association is more than just a tourist map. It is the result of the personal commitment of owners who have chosen to open their doors to share a story, a place, or an emotion.
The Gardens of La Muette
This desire to pass on their heritage is also expressed in the warm voice of Laurence Vivant, who grew up in the Valois region with her grandparents. Now the owners of La Muette with her husband, Nicolas, they open their garden to the public during national events such as the Rendez-vous aux Jardins (Gardens Open Days) and the European Heritage Days, offering unique highlights, including a visit to a vast, ancient stone quarry located beneath the park. "Opening the gates means sharing the joy of living here. I love welcoming everyone, but I have a particular fondness for schools. I often organize sensory tours for children."
Laurence is even preparing a mini-fair of gardening professions for 2026, in order to give young people another way of discovering heritage: through the earth, smells, light, living matter.
Le Plessis-au-Bois manor
A little further south, on the border between Oise and Aisne, the same commitment inspired Diane de Longuemar, whose manor of Plessis au Bois embodies the deep roots of the Valois region in French history. The manor, listed as a historical monument, is situated on a site occupied since antiquity and remodeled in the 15th and 16th centuries.
Diane, a renowned artist, and her husband Paul-Etienne chose to settle here more than thirty years ago, attracted by the unique character of the site, its space conducive to her monumental works, and its deep connection with the territory: "When we arrived about thirty years ago, we found old maps that all bore the name of Valois. It is everywhere, but it has been gradually erased. We must bring it back to life."
This estate perfectly embodies a hidden treasure. Purchased in the 17th century by Philippe d'Orléans, brother of Louis XIV, for its strategic location for hunting, it has retained the remarkable architecture of a Soissons-style manor-farm. The central building, the hexagonal keep, and the dovecote can still be seen today. To immerse oneself in an almost enchanted atmosphere, the spirit of the late Middle Ages and early Renaissance is reborn in these walled gardens, reminiscent of the seven days of Genesis. As Diane explains, "Visitors are always curious about the history of the place. There's a real sense of wonder in crossing the threshold of these private estates."
In terms of activities, the manor gardens can be visited year-round as part of a nature outing or individually by contacting Diane or Paul-Etienne. They also open their doors to national events such as Rendez-vous aux Jardins and European Heritage Days . They also organize numerous art and vegetable plant exhibitions, such as the "Vegetable Plants in Fashion" exhibition in 2025 and an "Invitation of Artists" exhibition every year in early autumn.
The Castle of Mont-l'Évêque
A younger generation also infuses this collective endeavor with Pierre de Pontalba, son of the owner of Mont-l'Évêque Castle. He brings a fresh perspective, yet one deeply rooted in the region: “The Valois region has an enormous cultural heritage that deserves to be better showcased. Participating in La Route du Valois means being part of a shared initiative to make sites more visible, to exchange ideas among local stakeholders, and to create discovery routes.” As such, the La Route du Valois website plays a vital role by offering new visibility to the properties.
Born in Valois, Pierre is particularly sensitive to its architectural richness:
"Even more than in other more uniform regions, here we find an astonishing mixture: Gothic, Gallo-Roman, 19the century, with the added proximity of large cathedrals on the outskirts. This diversity is what makes up the identity of Valois.
For him, participation in the association fills an important heritage gap, by giving a common voice to the different sites.
The CMontépilloy Castle
Finally, another key figure in the association, François Rouzé, owner of the Château de Montépilloy with his wife Élisabeth, is actively pursuing a mission of rediscovery: “ I joined the association from the very beginning. The Château [de Montépilloy] is an iconic historical monument, as its history and architectural choices reflect the policies of the first direct Capetian kings as well as their successors from the Valois dynastic branch, whose kingdom would become modern-day France. However, it still suffers greatly from a lack of recognition. It is unusual, with its ruined tower visible from afar, but few people know its history. It is absolutely essential to include it in a broader heritage circuit, linked to well-known sites like Chantilly. That's how we attract and reassure visitors: they know they're not coming for nothing.”
Originally from the Somme, François Rouzé emphasizes how the Valois region has been relatively spared from the great destruction that has marked other regions. "Here, you can still find castles in almost every village," he explains. According to him, this testifies to a true historical tradition, a very ancient foundation that has stood the test of time.
On site, it offers a permanent exhibition with display cases and objects from excavations, and a 3D projection of the reconstructed castle . Exceptional events have also been organized, such as a medieval festival with reenactments, a local market and demonstrations of traditional crafts, and equestrian tournaments, as well as the opening of the estate for La Nuit des Châteaux (Night of the Castles), with shows, conferences, and meals.
For 2025, the Heritage Days also provide an opportunity to present the planned restoration projects: "The tower has a crack. It will be repaired in collaboration with the DRAC (Regional Directorate of Cultural Affairs). And the site will be brought to life, notably through the restoration of a bread oven, which will be used to organize workshops dedicated to bread making."
FOR FURTHER
The Route du Valois doesn't trace a single path, but several itineraries through the places and the seasons. Each owner invents their own way of welcoming visitors: guided tours, garden walks, exhibitions, meetings with artisans, cultural tours, hosting vintage cars or local associations, etc.
It is a lively, simple, direct way of making heritage exist differently: not as a showcase, but as a meeting space between past and present, between those who live here and those who come to discover.
And because stones don't speak for themselves, La Route du Valois gives voice to those who inhabit them. They are the passers-by, the witnesses, the gardeners of memory.
For those who wish to learn more and discover all the places open to the public, the La Route du Valois website offers a complete list of sites and events not to be missed.
